Idyllwild Town Crier
   


 

Rock Climbing


Tahquitz (Lily) Rock at Sunset

Lily Rock has over 120 established routes which range from one to eight pitches in length & is also within a half hour hike from Humber Park.


For rock climbers from Southern California and beyond, Tahquitz Rock is not just another pretty face. 

Far more than just good climbing, both Tahquitz and Suicide rocks, located in the cliffs above Idyllwild, are rich in rock climbing lore.

Idyllwild is renowned for several key characteristics: clean, yet unglaciated granite, proximity to a large population center, good weather and a mountain setting.

There are upward of 300 routes on Suicide Rock alone, and another 200 or so on Tahquitz, also called Lily Rock. 

Tahquitz Rock is special because, for the Southern California area, its routes are relatively long. It also is cool most of the day and has more crack climbing. 

Suicide Rock also is high quality rock but it has more climbing routes on its face and is sunny most of the time. 

The first-ascent party of a climb has the honor of classifying it, and the names chosen describe the route's complexity and unique characteristics. Route names vary with the imagination of the climber, leading to such designations as Spring Cleaning, Knocking on Heaven's Door, Sahara Terror, Blanketty Blank, My Pink Half of the Drainpipe, Coffin Nail and Godzilla's Return. 

Technical climbing routes are rated up to 5.14 on the basis of difficulty. Some of the most noteworthy climbs on Tahquitz include The Mechanic's Route, a 5.8 climbed in 1937 by Dick Jones and Glen Dawson; The Open Book, a 5.9 climbed in 1952 and The Vampire, a 5.11c climbed in 1960, both by Royal Robbins; and The Edge, a 5.11 climbed in 1975 by Tobin Sorenson. Ivan Couch. In 1970, Ivan Couch climbed a 5.11a, Vahalla, on Suicide Rock. 

Before attempting to climb in Idyllwild, here are a few pointers to keep in mind.

Attend professional rock climbing classes. The instruction could prevent disaster. Classes instruct climbers in use of the proper gear, up-to-date climbing techniques and safety procedures.

Rule number one for climbers is never climb alone. Always climb with a partner and never take unnecessary chances.

Rock climbers should use appropriate equipment. Consult a professional for advice.  

The three types of climbs are: free, aid and solo. In free climbing, equipment is used for protection only in case of a fall. Aid climbing involves the use of special aid gear placed into the rock and is for situations in which the climber must depend on the equipment to be hauled or pulled up. Solo climbing is done without the aid of ropes. It is not recommended for the novice and should only be attempted by highly experienced climbers. 

Accidents do happen, but far less than imagined when safety precautions are used. Accidents may occur because of falling rocks, inadequate equipment, bad weather or loss of concentration. Human error and the climber's overestimation of his or her ability is the reason behind most accidents.


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